Step-by-Step Guide to Stitching a Colourful Robin on Your Embroidery Square
One of the best things about embroidery is that if you don’t like something, you can always cut it out and try again. Nothing is set in stone with thread!
When I finished my robin, I wasn’t quite happy with the eye. It just didn’t look right. So, I took it out and stitched it again, this time using a different colour. The change made a big difference!
These embroidery panels are perfect for trying out new stitches. We all have stitches we don’t use much (there are so many to choose from!), and it’s totally normal to be less familiar with some of them. The more you practice, the better you get. For me, basket weave stitch was a bit of a mystery, but it’s quickly become a favourite. It’s a fun stitch with lots of variations, whether you want single lines or a thicker weave, and you can use one colour or multiple colours to create cool patterns.
Now that my robin is all stitched up, I’m going to walk you through exactly how I did it, including the threads I used, the number of strands, the stitches, and even the needle sizes. Feel free to follow along or make changes to suit your own style!
What materials you need
A hand printed embroidery square, an embroidery hoop, needles, threads and scissors. I’ll delve into each of these below……
I also used a fabric pen to make myself a few guidelines, but seeing as these guides will be completely stitched over you can use a pencil if you don’t have a removeable fabric pen.
An Embroidery Square
Start with one of my Robin embroidery squares, which are hand-printed on natural calico. These squares are ready for you to add your own stitches and colours. You can grab your Robin embroidery square here……
An Embroidery Hoop
I used a 5” hoop for this project, which works great with all of my embroidery squares.
Embroidery Needles
Choosing the right embroidery needle
It’s important to use the right needles for embroidery. They have a sharp point for piercing fabric and a bigger eye to fit multiple strands of thread. Needle size affects the stitch: bigger needles make larger holes, which can shift stitches if you’re using fewer strands, while smaller needles can be tough to use with more strands. I have needle sets in my shop that include six needles in three sizes: one large for 6 strands, two medium for 3-4 strands, and three small for 1-2 strands. I’ll be referring to these sizes in the tutorial. You can buy these needle packs here…...
Threads
I used Anchor 6-stranded cotton threads for this project. They’re high-quality and come in so many great colours. Here are the eight I chose:
Anchor 46 - Crimson Red
Anchor 335 - Dark Blaze
Anchor 330 - Dark Medium
Anchor 314 - Medium Light Tangerine
Anchor 303 - Medium Citrus
Anchor 349 - Medium Bark
Anchor 360 - Dark Coffee
Anchor 398 - Grey
Scissors
Any scissors will work, but sharp-pointed embroidery scissors are best for trimming threads.
2. The stitches I used
Basket weave Stitch
Straight Stitch
Stem Stitch
Long and Short Stitch
Satin Stitch
Couch Stitch
Feel Free to Mix It Up
The stitches I used for my robin are just a starting point. You don’t have to use them exactly as described—or at all! Experimenting with different stitches can give your robin its own unique look.
3. Time to start stitching
Preparing your Embroidery Square in the Hoop
Place your embroidery square in the hoop and pull the fabric tight so it feels like a drum. This tension helps keep your stitches neat and prevents the fabric from wrinkling. Pull the fabric edges outside the hoop, smooth out any bumps, then tighten the hoop’s screw until it’s secure. For even more tension, pull the fabric edges again after tightening. Keep an eye on the tension as you stitch, as it might loosen a bit over time.
4. Step-by-Step Stitching Guide
The Belly
Stitch – Basket Weave Stitch
Thread colour – Anchor 303, 314 and 349
Number of strands – 3
Needle size – Medium
The basket weave stitch is a fun raised stitch, that looks really complicated but is really easy to learn.
Basket weave is started by stitching vertical stitches across the shape. To create an even weave, you’ll need to stitch these vertical stitches evenly apart. I penned on a few markings to help me space these stitches. Although you could do these stitches vertical, I thought it could look cool if these were stitched on an angle. I stitched them at the same angle as the wing line.
I also wanted to create a fun pattern, so I changed the colours of these stitches as I worked across the belly. My penned markings helped with this too, as I could stitch all of the yellow stitches at the same time etc., instead of having to stop and start with each colour change. See the diagram below for colour placement.
I also went with 2 rows of each stitch to create a nice thick weaving pattern that would fully cover the fabric below.
Next, weave threads through to create the basket weave stitch. I continued stitching double rows for this step so that the weave pattern was even.
I used a different alternating colour pattern for the weaving to create a fun uneven colour effect.
TIP - weave with the head of the needle. I found this much easier to not snag any threads, but be careful of the sharp end of the needle. I’m not used to the needle being that way around and pricked myself many times.
The Wingline
Begin at the bottom of the wingline and work upwards. Smaller stitches will give a smoother curve.
Stitch – Stem Stitch
Thread colours – Anchor 349
Number of strands – 3
Needle size – Medium
The Wing and Chest Markings
You can stitch these markings now or wait until after the wing and body are done.
Stitch – Straight Stitch
Thread colour – Anchor 349
Number of strands – 3
Needle size – Medium
The Red Breast
I was excited to add red to the robin! I stitched the entire robin body in five colour bands (three bands on the breast, and two bands for the body and head). Draw lines on the fabric to guide colour changes.
Stitch – Long and Short Stitch
Thread colour – Anchor 46, 335 & 330
Number of strands – 3
Needle size – Medium
Start with Anchor 46, then switch to Anchor 335, and finish with Anchor 330. Blend the colours by slightly overlapping the colour bands.
TIP - come up close to where you went down. This will save you thread and make it easier to stitch with less thread on the back of your work.
The Tail, Back and Head
Stitch – Long and Short Stitch
Thread colour – Anchor 314 & 303
Number of strands – 3
Needle size – Medium
Stitch the tail, back, and head in the same way as the red breast. Start with Anchor 314 and transition to Anchor 303 at about the eye line. Curve your stitches to follow the shape of the body. If you make smaller stitches you’ll be able to create smoother curves. Add stitches over colour bands if needed to blend them more smoothly.
TIP - You can go back and add stitches over the tops of the colour bands to blend them in further.
The Eye
I initially used grey for the eye but changed it to dark brown after finishing the beak. It looked much better!
Stitch – Satin Stitch
Thread colour – Anchor 360
Number of strands – 3
Needle size – Medium
The Pupil
Stitch – Couch Stitch
Thread colour – Anchor 398
Number of strands – 2
Needle size – Small
I added a single couching stitch over the eye stitches beneath it. The positioning and size of this small pupil can really add character to your Robin. Don’t worry if it’s not perfect on the first try—one of the great things about embroidery is that you can easily snip it out and try again. For such a tiny detail, this part can be especially enjoyable to play around with.
The Beak
Stitch – Satin Stitch
Thread colour – Anchor 349
Number of strands – 3
Needle size – Medium
Stitch the beak using vertical satin stitches. Start at the base and work towards the tip.
The Cute Little Legs
To complete the legs, I used 4 simple straight stitches for each one. I saved the middle toe for last, stitching it over the point where the other three stitches meet. This helped give the legs a cleaner, more polished look.
Stitch – Straight Stitch
Thread colour – Anchor 349
Number of strands – 3
Needle size – Medium
And that’s it! He’s finished!
I though about adding some text around the edges of my Robin, as I’ve done with a few of my other embroidery squares, but ultimately decided to leave him as is. Instead, I moved him to a smaller 4” hoop, which reduced the empty space around him.
5. Finishing and Displaying your Embroidery
You can frame your piece directly in the hoop. Trim the excess fabric, leaving a 4 cm border. Stitch a running stitch 1 cm from the edge, leaving unknotted tails at both ends. Pull the tails to gather the fabric and tie a knot.
This method is not permanent, so if you decide to add something later, you can remove the stitches and continue working.
Step back and admire your beautiful work! What a cute little colourful robin!
I hope you enjoyed this embroidery project. Check out my other embroidery blogs for more ideas and links to live stitching videos. Also, don’t forget to visit my shop for 12 more embroidery square designs that are perfect for relaxing and creative stitching.
You can check them out here...
And don’t forget to tag me in your social media when you show off your beautiful work – I’d really love to see it.
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Enjoy your stitching!
Until next time,
Liz x